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Rivet Shop head

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Reddsky1

Active Member
I recently read in the latest sportplane Issue, the article on rivets, that the shop head should just barely fit into the rivet checker hole. I was initially taught that the shop head should NOT fit into the Hole but be slightly larger.
What is right Just fit or slightly too big.
I am already on my wings and this maybe too late a time to ask this question?
 
The "checker" hole...

Reddsky1 said:
I recently read in the latest sportplane Issue, the article on rivets, that the shop head should just barely fit into the rivet checker hole. I was initially taught that the shop head should NOT fit into the Hole but be slightly larger.
What is right Just fit or slightly too big.
I am already on my wings and this maybe too late a time to ask this question?
Click to expand...

...is usually set up as a "perfect size" rivet measurement, not a go/no go gauge.

The shop head rivet size tolerances are listed here on my scan/translation of the Mil-Spec, borrowed by Vans...:)

http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/Specs.htm

Pick your smallest shop head, measure it with calipers, if it's OK, then all of the ones bigger than it will be OK too...
 
Mil spec. is 1.3 min. diameter, Vans calls out 1.5 dia. I believe the aluminum gauges are at 1.5 I like to set them so they fit in the 1.5 hole with a very tiny amount of slop. If it doesnt, and the height is still good, that good enough for me as well. What we really need is a go/nogo gauge with a 1.3 dia and 1.5 dia hole. For the record:
3/32 rivet: 1.3d= .122" and 1.5d= .147"
1/8 rivet: 1.3d= .163" and 1.5d= .188

Numbers rounded off to the nearest thousandth.
 
You may need a different calculator....

G-force said:
Mil spec. is 1.3 min. diameter, Vans calls out 1.5 dia. I believe the aluminum gauges are at 1.5 I like to set them so they fit in the 1.5 hole with a very tiny amount of slop. If it doesnt, and the height is still good, that good enough for me as well. What we really need is a go/nogo gauge with a 1.3 dia and 1.5 dia hole. For the record:
3/32 rivet: 1.3d= .122" and 1.5d= .147"
1/8 rivet: 1.3d= .163" and 1.5d= .188

Numbers rounded off to the nearest thousandth.
Click to expand...

3/32 rivet: 1.3 d = 0.122" and 1.5 d = 0.141"

1/8 rivet: 1.3 d = 0.163" and 1.5 d = 0.188"

Only 0.006 difference, but the 0.147 is probably closer to your Avery gauge hole size.

However, 0.122" and 0.163" are the really critical minimum diameter dimensions.

Note that there is NO maximum shop head diameter, so a go/no go gauge is not really applicable here.

If it's bigger than the minimum, and not too flat - minimum height of 0.038" and 0.050" - you are good to go.

You can check for maximum height, but I believe that is a physical clearance issue, rather than a rivet strength issue.

PS .... I'd like to give Brian Yablon credit for all of the on-line rivet spec. drawings - he created them in the 90's (pre-HTML editors) and they have been copied absolutely everywhere since then. Both links above use his drawings...:) I don't know where he is now...
 
I stand corrected, I was rounding off in my head, somehow .140625 got incorrectly rounded.
 
I bought the ClearAir rivet gages from ACS a long time ago. Laser machined with go-no go slots, min/max steps for height check, and a scale for measuring length of unknown origin rivets. Spendy but worth the price.
 
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